So, just two weeks left in sunny Sicilia. And I'm sad about that, I've had a lot of fun here. It hasn't exactly been the most challenging period of my career, but I'm not complaining about a 6 month holiday!
After Easter at Stromboli I took some more time off the following weekend to see the western side of the island. I saw lots of interesting stuff of which other people have taken much better pictures than me. :)
First a trip through beautiful CefalĂș (another place I'm glad not to be at during the summer period) and then up into the mountains of the Parco delle Madonie. Here I stayed a night in what looked like a Swiss chalet (they have skiing in the winter) and went hiking up to about 2000 m, seeing deer, goats, birds of prey (unspecified - I'm no ornothologist) and at least the prints of wild boar (which I then ate with my pasta that night). I also checked into the gorgeous little town of Castelbuono where I could have spent much money buying cosmetics made from the milk of the ass had I chose. (I chose instead buying liquor made from the fruit of the prickly pear)
Beautiful - the mountains of Sicilia are in my opinion better than the sea in many ways, but most people I meet here have never even been there! Many of the locals get up from their beach and move across the island to another beach for a holiday in summer. Strange, but understandable. Trekking seems to be something of a rich/educated sport in Europe.
This is really a poor place for being part of a western country. Just about everyone had a go at repressing the locals for a long time (the Spanish Inquisition, Gariboldi, the Mob and Berlosconi being the most recent in that order) and apart from the industry where I'm working, tourism and agriculture there's a lot of seemingly entrenched poverty. There's also a sort of contradiction about these beach loving people who don't actually swim much... I told someone about my upbringing in Australia where many schools had swimming pools and lessons twice a week, big sports grounds and so on and he was amazed. Here the kids are lucky to have a small patch of concrete big enough for a basketball game.

Next up was Palermo, the capital of Sicily and it's old. 2700 years old according to trusty Wikipedia. It has history just oozing out of every pore, not least out of it's roughly 2 million churches (possibly a very minor exgeration). I saw all the must see sites, such as mind bogglingly priceless-for-its-day
Cappella Palatina built by the Normans as well as lots of interesting smaller places (this was after all a stopping point for the crusades). To round out the whole religous theme I also went to the wow awesome wow cathedral at
Monreale.
Before leaving the city however I went to the
botanical gardens and walked around in the rather cold rain. These were interesting for several reasons (eg they originally started a century or two as a teaching garden and first introduced mandarins into Europe) but there's nothing like a massive moreton bay fig to bring back memories. I didn't climb this one though :) (no big bouncy branch like at Wellington Point beach). As if that wasn't Qld enough, there were macadamia nut trees and lately I've been seeing bottle brushes and birds of paradise plants everywhere. As these are all tucked in amongst the gum trees....
Just out of Palermo is the nature reserve of
Zingaro which provided another lovely trek along the cliff with stunning views of the Mediterean (what was I saying about those mountains, something about being better than the sea??) before heading up to the medieval mountain top fortress of
Erice. I stayed the night in a seaside industrial resort full of germans and school children out of Marsala, which looked lovely during the 50 laps I made of it trying to find a hotel in the actual city before giving up in disgust, before heading the next day to Mazara del Vallo, one of my favourite spots. Almost more Tunisian than Italian with all the immigrants working the fishing village and the ancient Arabic layout from the days when they had their turn at running Sicilia, I had lots of fun roaming the Kasbah (yep, it was even called that) before eating hands down the best couscous I'd ever imagined possible. The whole western area is known for its seafood couscous. Yum.
Ironically, this side of the country was the only place where they had decent road signs. I could actually make my way continuously from one place to the next without doing 5 loops trying to work out which the arrows actually went! The city was also really well set up for tourists, although the websites are a bit of a disspointment. I'll just link to the museum of the
Satyr and tell you that the story is actually really interesting.
Now it's getting late and this blog is getting long so I'll just mention
Selinunte and
Segesta, two very ancient sites I saw on the way home. I did actually take some really good photos of these two, especially the quarry near Selinunte where you can see the parts of the temple columns that the ancient Greek masons had just carved out of the rock when they were interrupted by the invasion of the next lot. Segesta was also beautiful - those guys really knew how to site a theatre for maximum effect. Unfortunately you'll have to take my word for it on the photos as I'm temporarily misplaced them.
The other notable thing about Segesta - I was able to translate the Italian instructions into French for some tourists. If there was some sort of smug smiley icon thingy here I would avail myself of it.
Since then, we've had a 5 day strike and a public holiday on a Saturday (what sort of mean goverment makes you take Saturday as your May Day?) and so I've got around Siracusa even more. Next time I will make an effort and put up a photo of the locals making hot salty ricotta like I'm sure they did 200 years ago....